How did I create this image

Camera: Canon EOS 5DS R

Lens: Canon EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM, with a focal length at 400 mm

f/11, 1/80 second, ISO 1600

Participants to my photo workshops often ask me about my thought process when I shoot. In this case the first thing I noticed, while walking in the forest, were the red berries and green foliage. When we look at a photograph or a painting, our eyes are unconsciously attracted to elements in red in the overall composition. In addition, red and green are opposite to each other in the wheel of colour, they are complementary colours like blue and orange, and yellow and violet. The use of complementary colours in photography creates a bold image.

My next step consisted of framing my subject so I moved around it to find the best angle. Should I look down, look up, be at eye-level, where is the light coming from? I also took into consideration distracting elements such as bright areas, leading lines, branches, damaged foliage, etc. I chose a telephoto lens to isolate my subject and I used a tripod for stability. Next I thought about the mood of my image and determined the depth of field, aperture and shutter speed. I chose to underexpose by one full stop. I also used a polarizing filter to suppress the reflection of light on the shiny surface of the berries.

In conclusion, I prefer to take my time in the field than spending hours in front of my computer screen trying to fix my mistakes. Afterall I love nature much more than my computer!

If you would like to learn more about my photo workshops, please contact me. I will be more than happy to help you hone your skills in nature and wildlife photography.

La nature avant tout

L’éthique dans la photographie naturaliste

La plupart d’entre nous aimons être dans la nature pour y trouver de l’inspiration, pratiquer un sport ou tout simplement pour notre bien-être mental. Le grand air, la beauté des paysages et les rencontres fortuites avec des animaux nous permettent de nous retrouver et de souffler un peu. En tant que photographe naturaliste, je préfère nettement passer mon temps à l’extérieur que devant mon ordinateur. Cependant, lorsque je suis sur le terrain, je suis consciente d’être dans un monde qui ne m’appartient pas. Ici vivent des plantes et des animaux alors que je ne suis qu’un visiteur et il est clair que chacun de nos passages dérange des écosystèmes, des bulles de vie.

C’est pourquoi, je m’efforce de réduire mon impact sur l’environnement en appliquant des principes d’éthique dans mon métier de photographe, même si c’est parfois au détriment du résultat final de mes expéditions : ce qui est primordial pour moi n’est pas d’obtenir la photo du siècle mais bien de respecter la nature. La patience et la persévérance deviennent alors des facteurs clefs pour obtenir des photos intéressantes, notamment du comportement des animaux sauvages dans leur milieu naturel.

Lorsque j’ai eu le privilège de photographier une wapiti en train d’allaiter trois petits, c’est elle qui a établi la distance entre nous et qui a déterminé la durée de la rencontre. Lorsqu’elle est repartie tranquillement dans la forêt, j’aurai pu la suivre dans un but personnel, celui d’obtenir plus de photographies, mais j’ai pensé au stress que ça leur causerait. Mon attitude calme et respectueuse envers la faune me permet de vivre des moments intimes comme celui-ci où chacun s’observe, s’évalue avant de poursuivre ses activités. Seules la patience et la détermination donnent d’excellents résultats, en plus de la satisfaction de respecter la nature.

Introducing Creative Nature Photography online course

I am happy to announce my two-part online course Creative Nature Photography (courses are available in English and in French). If you are looking to improve your creative skills, this is the course for you. Divided in two parts: Composition and Wildlife Photography, the course covers keys elements of composition, use of light, shutter speed, preparation for a field trip, encounters with wildlife and so much more.

The presentation is given on Zoom so you can ask your questions after the lecture and interact with our small group of 10 people maximum.

You are not left on your own with a video and reading material.

The first part of the course in English starts on Tuesday 23 February. The course in French starts on 24 February. I have classes scheduled in the morning and in the evening to accommodate you no matter your time zone.

Sign up today for one part only, or save $10 by signing up for both parts.

Photo Technique: How to create a strong black and white photograph?

A simple composition associated with a careful use of geometry, lines, curves, contrast and negative space.

Photo Technique: How to reduce noise in an image?

There are a few actions you can take:

• Expose to the right by either opening up the lens aperture or by using a slower shutter speed. An underexposed image later brightened on a computer will result in a lot of noise and other artefacts.

• Determine your camera’s high ISO capability by conducting a simple test. Place your camera on a tripod and take the same photograph of a subject with dark areas, at various ISO starting at 100 all the way up by increment of full stops. Verify the progression in the amount of noise by enlarging each image on your computer screen.
  

Photo Technique: What makes a compelling image?

Many factors are to be considered but professional photographers, photo editors and jury members on photo competitions agree that what makes a compelling image is a unique perspective on the subject, sharpness and good composition. How to create a good composition? Keep it simple! Isolate your subject by getting rid of distracting elements, determine your source of light and use the elements of design: lines, pattern, shape and texture.

Photo Technique: Depth of Field

A narrow depth of field isolates the subject. It makes it stand out against a blurred background because the viewer’s eye is naturally attracted by a sharp subject. A wide depth of field put the subject into context. The entire picture is sharp so the viewer tends to look at the subject in relation to its surroundings.

Narrow depth of field

Wide depth of field

Narrow depth of field

Wide depth of field

Photo Technique: How to use the White Balance?

The colour temperature is measured in Kelvin degrees (k):
- Daylight: 5200 k
- Shadow: 7000 k
- Cloudy, sunrise and sunset: 6000 k
- White light or fluorescent: 4000 k
- Candlelight: 2000 k
Depending on the source of light illuminating the scene, adjust the white balance on your camera by choosing either the preset for Kelvin degrees or the symbol for Cloudy, Sunny, Fluorescent light, etc.

Cold Colour Temperature

Warm Colour Temperature

Photo Technique: Expose to the right

We expose to the right with a digital camera because of the way digital image sensors record information: they record more detailed information in bright areas than in dark areas, which means you see fine details and smooth ranges of tone and colour in bright areas and can see noise in dark areas.
In order to maximize the amount of recorded information, brighten your exposure without blowing out the highlight details. Exposing to the right means the histogram display is pushed to the right, in the brighter values.
This fine-tuning is key to achieve the best image quality.

The Basics of Photography

Composition, exposure, shutter speed, ISO, aperture, opening up, spotlighting, centre-weighted meter: you might be familiar with some of these terms but it’s not always obvious how to adjust your camera accordingly. I offer half-day and multi-days workshops to help you understand and practice the fundamentals of photography. Once you master the basics, you’ll be able to take manual control of your camera and get better results.

All my workshops are given in the field for a hands-on experience. Get in touch so we can arrange for a workshop.

How to take better images

No matter our level in photography, we all strive to become better at it. Once we get an amazing shot and recognition from our peers, we feel the pressure to surpass that image or, at least, maintain the same level of quality in our work. Here are a few basics to remember:

Find your subject

Ask yourself what makes you pick up your camera in the first place, what you’re interested in: puppies, bears, birds, people, derelict places…

Do your research

Find out more about your subject’s behaviour, the best times and places to photograph them. Study maps, wildlife life cycles, animal tracks and droppings, almanach, tides tables, local news… Explore your area on foot and note your observations. Determine the most favourable type of weather based on the intended mood of the image. Visualize your shot. Evaluate travel time to location and preparation time in the field. Keep all your notes in a notepad.

Know your camera

Make the most of your camera. No matter the (limited or extensive) range of settings, you have to know their function, location on the menu and how to quickly adjust them. Read the manual. That’s right, read the entire camera manual. The more you know about your camera, the most you’ll get out of it.

In the field

With all that knowledge in hands, you get to location, find your subject, frame it and press the shutter button. Next, check the strength of your composition, the sharpness of your image and verify the exposure on the histogram. It’s important to take your time in the field because mistakes cannot be fixed at home, even with the best photo editing program. An out-of-focus image is an out-of-focus image. A badly composed image will remain a badly composed image - forever.

Back at home

Once you display your images on a bigger screen, study them closely and judge their quality. What worked, what didn’t? Why? What can be improved? How? Find resources that can help you improve your techniques or artistic vision. The best way to progress is to learn from your mistakes and practice a lot. The more you practice, the better you’ll become, just like an athlete.

Be unique!

Get inspiration from your favourite photographers but avoid copying their style. Find your own voice. It’s okay to be different and not follow the latest trend. Your images will be more meaningful if they reflect your own vision and sensibility towards the subject.

Upcoming workshops

Photo Adventure in Yuquot, BC

I recently returned from Yuquot, a historic village located on Nootka Island, on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The land has been inhabited by indigenous peoples since time immemorial. In 1778, Captain James Cook became the first known European to land in the area. Colonization ensued with its lasting impact on local communities. Today Yuquot is a permanent home to a few people only.

I reached my destination by floatplane. Weather was poor and landing was not guaranteed but we made it safely. After dropping my bags at the rented cabin, I immediately headed out with my camera despite the heavy rain and wind. I wanted to explore the area and find potential photo opportunities in preparation for the next few days.

During my stay in Yuquot, I had the opportunity to witness sea otters feeding on sea urchins and a mink running along the shore. I was hoping to see more wildlife and photograph sea wolves (and black bears) but I didn’t see any signs, tracks or droppings. Although I had to sometimes work with hard light and I captured only a few images of what I had envisioned, I liked my adventure. I realized that I was well prepared for the challenging conditions such as starting a fire with soaked logs! I enjoyed the amazing ocean view from my rustic cabin, the sound of crashing waves at night and the floatplane journey over Muchalat inlet.

Autumn Vibes on Vancouver Island

Change of season can mean a change of subject for nature photographers. During the autumn on Vancouver Island, I turn my attention to local forests with deciduous trees like maple trees. They produce various shades of yellow, orange and red and are some of my favourite subjects to photograph at this time of year. I often return to the same woodlands several times during the season to capture the progression of the colour change. I visit these spots during the day, at night, and in various weather conditions: wind, fog, light rain or cloud covered. Each situation tells a different story.

When I walk in the forest, I look for patterns, shapes and texture. I look up, down, I lay on the ground, get on my knees, stand on boulders, as I look for a unique perspective on my subject. I like simple compositions. When I frame my subject, I make sure that they are no distracting elements and no lines leading the viewer’s eye out of the frame. Only then I press the shutter-release button.

I hope you find your own inspiration in the woods.

Triangle of exposure

Three elements constitute the triangle of exposure: aperture, shutter speed and ISO:

• Aperture (f/N): light passing through the lens

• Shutter speed: how long the shutter stays open

• ISO: image sensor’s sensitivity to light

A small aperture (i.e. f/16) gives a deep depth of field and is usually used for landscape.

A fast shutter speed (i.e. 1/1000 sec) is used to freeze motion, like birds in flight or action shots. It also gives a shallow depth of field.

A slow shutter speed (i.e. 1/4 sec) is great for motion blur like milky water effect or rain streaks. Slow shutter speed is also used for night photography or poorly lit areas. In any case, a tripod is highly recommended for long exposures.

Before you adjust the aperture, shutter speed and ISO on your camera, you need to ask yourself: What effect do I wish to create? What is the mood of my image? What am I trying to tell?

Use the light meter in your camera to help you get the proper exposure. Light is measured in Exposure Value (EV) and typically displays in cameras from - 3 EV to + 3 EV

-3 _____ -2 _____ -1 _____ ∆ _____ 1 _____ 2 _____ 3

under exposed correct expo. over exposed

Once you’ve taken your shot, check the histogram and readjust your exposure if necessary.

Time to practice. Let me know how it goes!

f/13, ISO 200, 1/25 sec

f/5.6, ISO 800, 1/500 s

f/11, ISO 100, 1 sec

f/5.6, ISO 800, 1/800 s

f/9, ISO 800, 1/30 s

Composition

Composition can be daunting. The good news is you can learn about it and get better with time and practice!

When I’m in the field, I always look for interesting shapes, patterns, lines and texture. Once I find a potential subject, I evaluate the intensity of the light, its direction and the need to use filters or not. I identify distracting elements, determine my focal point and move around to find my composition. I establish the depth of field, what should be in focus and which lens to use. Then I set up my tripod, which is essential in order to get sharp images. After taking my shot, I check the histogram and the clarity of my image on the back screen. From there I can adjust my composition accordingly. I find that seeing my image on the small screen tells me right away if the composition is good or not.

I believe that a poor image cannot be fixed with a software so I prefer to take the time to compose my images while I am in the field. I also prefer to spend my time outside rather than in front of my computer!

If you’re ready to learn how to get better images, sign up for an upcoming workshop or ask for a private workshop.

Get off Auto, create your best images this summer!

Just added 3 workshops in English and 3 in French, all in the Comox Valley, and on Saturdays afternoon.

• Learn how to use your camera on manual mode

• Learn about exposure, depth of field, focus, and key elements of composition

• Use technical and creative elements together to improve your images

• Get more confident with your camera and your skills

• Get more one-on-one time by being part of a small group of 5 participants

• Take your newly acquired knowledge to your next trip

Book now!

Graduated ND filters

Graduated neutral density filters, or graduated ND filters, are used by photographers to control very bright areas of a scene. A graduated filter is made of glass which is half dark and half clear with a soft or hard edge between the two parts. Graduated ND filters come in different density, typically from one to 10 f-stops.

Fix or hand-held the filter in front of your lens. Place the darker area over the part you wish to darken (i.e. bright sky). The clear part of the filter will keep its normal brightness. You’ll notice that once you have placed the filter in front of your lens, you’ll need to re-adjust the exposure. You can use a graduated filter to emphasize an area of your image by darkening a less important area, knowing that the viewer’s eyes are naturally attracted by lighter areas in a photograph.

Note: The transition between the dark and clear parts of a filter can create an unnatural line in your image so use the proper density filter.

Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA

24-70 mm, ISO 100 f11 1/6 s

Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA

24-70 mm, ISO 100 f11 1/2 s

Nature Photography - Field Tips

It’s mating season and if you are into that kind of pictures then there are a few things to consider before heading out.

First you need to learn about your subject: mating call, mating ground, habitat, food source, droppings and even tracks. For bird photographers, there are several websites dedicated to bird songs. Start memorizing songs and calls, it will be easier for you to locate birds once you’re in the field.

Mating season on Vancouver Island, BC, Canada.

Find your subject’s resting or nesting area and return there very early in the morning. Wait for them to wake up and start their day. Did you know that some birds tend to face east in the morning to warm up in the sun? Leave plenty of space for your subject and observe them while they pursue their activities. With a good zoom lens, you’ll be able to capture their routine. Be patient! You might need to stand still in inclement weather or in an awkward position for a very long period of time before you get a rewarding image.

I hope you enjoy the awakening of nature as much as I do!

8 New Nature Photography Workshops on Vancouver Island

Spring has sprung and things are moving for Catherine Babault Photography!

An article about Catherine Babault Photography was published in the March edition of the magazine L’Entr’aînés, a monthly publication of l’Assemblée Francophone des retraités et des aînés de la Colombie-Britannique. You can read it here.

In April I had an interview on Radio Victoria to talk about my workshops and my passion for photography. Listen here.

Vancouver Island Nature Photography Workshops

Eight multi-day workshops have just been added for this summer: 4 in English and 4 in French. They will be given in the greater region of the Comox Valley, in a radius of 60 km. We will cover the art of composition, use of light, creativity and workflow. I will take participants to some of my favourite spots to photograph nature and wildlife. This should be fun!

Check for upcoming workshops and new fine art prints or follow me on Twitter for the latest news!

Herring Spawn on the coast of Vancouver Island

After weeks of anticipation, the Pacific herring has spawned in shallow waters along the coastline of the Salish sea. Birds, mammals and humans have been competing for it since the controversial fishery opened last week.

I witnessed wildlife feeding, and even fighting, for the little silver fish. They could do with some good fish to fatten them up before their offspring are born in the coming weeks. They will certainly need a lot of energy at that time. I also saw a courageous mink running back and forth to get herrings from the shoreline, while keeping an eye on eagles perched on tall trees. It was going so fast, I had a hard time to keep track of it with my big lens. The light was great for photography as the sky was overcast and it was very early in the morning.

Enjoy these few images and if you wish to see more, go to my portfolio or in my stock images.